Alvin

Jul 218 min read

Watch wants | Why I've been researching Jaeger-LeCoultre.

Updated: Jul 23

I have been moved, shaken, shook. My balance wheel has been interrupted by a force of horological immensity. A two headed monster, angel and demon, peace and war, the ultimate manipulation. I have been compromised by unspeakable beauty, by the unpronounceable. I don't usually like duplicity in my watches, it sounds a bit treacherous but in this case (pun intended) it's double the trouble, double the budget and double the pleasure. You know I like things whirlwindy, complicated and intricate. You know I love tourbillons, and if you love those, you'll love JLC.

Jaeger-LeCoultre, pronounced JLC or if you're brave "Jay-uh Le-koohl-truh", are known as the watchmakers watchmaker, their story is a perfect balance of precision, innovation, and artistry that spans nearly two centuries, and I'll be god damned if they aren't still killing it, albeit softly.

I think JLC have made a good few my favourite watches (grail page needs updating). Several are tourbillons with a literal twist, the gyrotourbillons. There is an element of the arcane, of something beyond reality in their more insane pieces. They just look like objects from a magical technological future or alternate dimension, or something like that might summon an Einstein-Rosen bridge to far far away. In other worlds they are worn by Batman and Dr Strange there is metaphor aplenty in the flipping, twisting sophisticated mechanical maelstrom.

All images are from JLC unless stated (https://www.jaeger-lecoultre.com)

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso has stood as a symbol of elegance, ingenuity, and resilience, embodying the spirit of innovation that defines the JLC. I have always enjoyed them, but they are pricey and I always wanted a duoface as I don't play polo, but who knows, if I bought one, it might change me more than expected. They are simply magnificent and have names to match like the 2019 Master Grande Tradition Gyrotourbillon Westminster Perpétuel (middle photo above) and the Reverso Hybris Mechanica Calibre 185 Quadriptyque (on the right above) - it's got four faces featuring minute repeater, perpetual calendar, flying tourbillon, multiple moonphases, and it tells time - bonkers.

They are pricey but worthy grail material for true horolophiles, I offer you some Youtube comments sections extracts on JLC watches that I wish I had said...

"Devastatingly Beautiful"

"Beyond Brilliant"

"Purely the pinnacle of haute horology"

"Overwhelming beauty and engineering."

And the list goes on, you get the idea. OK, let's get stuck in to some history, some artistry and some porn - just watchporn but you'll make noises for sure. I know you did already.

The Birth of a Legend

In 1833, Antoine LeCoultre, a skilled watchmaker, established a small workshop in the Swiss Jura Mountains. With an insatiable curiosity and passion for precision, he laid the foundation for what would become Jaeger-LeCoultre. Antoine was a pioneer in metallurgy and invented a machine to cut watch pinions, demonstrating an early commitment to innovation that would define the brand. In 1844, Antoine LeCoultre invented the Millionometer, the first instrument capable of measuring microns - that is one millionth of a metre or one-thousandth of a millimetre. This invention was pivotal, as it allowed for unprecedented precision in watchmaking. The Millionometer epitomized Jaeger-LeCoultre's dedication to pushing the boundaries of what was horologically possible. Jaeger-LeCoultre holds over 400 patents, reflecting its relentless pursuit of innovation. These patents cover a wide array of advancements, from the keyless watch (1847) to the silent regulator for chiming watches (1895). Since 2000, the company has been a fully owned subsidiary of the Swiss luxury group Richemont.

So, we got the LeCoultre but what about the Jaeger. The partnership that would forever change the landscape of watchmaking began in 1903. Edmond Jaeger, a Parisian watchmaker known for creating ultra-thin movements, challenged the Swiss watch industry to produce his designs. Jacques-David LeCoultre, Antoine's grandson, accepted the challenge, leading to the production of ultra-thin movements that set new standards in watchmaking. By 1937, the collaboration had become so fruitful that the company was officially renamed Jaeger-LeCoultre.

Now nestled in the Vallée de Joux, the heart of Swiss watchmaking, Jaeger-LeCoultre's Manufacture is a place where tradition meets innovation. This serene valley provides the perfect backdrop for the meticulous craftsmanship that goes into each Jaeger-LeCoultre watch

Iconic Timetelling

The Atmos Clock: A Marvel of Engineering

In 1928, Jaeger-LeCoultre unveiled the Atmos clock, a perpetual motion clock that draws energy from minute temperature changes which effects (expand/contract) a gas held in the mechanism. So, the temperature change powers the main spring - 1 degree of temp change can run the clock for 24 hours - insane. This engineering marvel can run for centuries with minimal maintenance. The Atmos clock exemplifies Jaeger-LeCoultre's ingenuity and commitment to creating lasting masterpieces. A true perpetual clock, I must have one of these, I must.

The Reverso

The most iconic creations of Jaeger-LeCoultre is the Reverso, introduced in 1931, the Reverso features a case that can flip over to protect the watch face. It came about when British officers stationed in India faced a peculiar problem (and it's not that they felt bad for colonizing): their wristwatches often suffered damage during intense polo matches. Seeking a solution, Swiss businessman César de Trey approached his friend Jacques-David LeCoultre with a challenge—to create a watch that could withstand the rigors of polo.

Reverso Monoface small seconds.

This ingenious design combined functionality with elegance, making it a timeless classic. For those who don't play polo, the duoface, introduced in 1994, gives you two watches for the price of one (which is actually the price of 5 cos they aren't cheap). The Reverso has since become a canvas for artistic and horological expression, with intricate engravings, unique designs adorning its flip side and crazy moonphase and tourbillon iterations.

REVERSO TRIBUTE CHRONOGRAPH Q389848J

As the Reverso is my primary interest, let go a bit deeper. Over the years, the Reverso has incorporated various patented technologies, such as the Duo mechanism, which allows for two time displays on a single movement. It's this kind of thing that gets me, it's proper haute horology, I definitely want a duoface in some form, it's the whole point of what the watch is (for me). And the more contrast between the sides the better. So, a dress watch on each side of different colours or styles, with varying complications is cool. But the latest Tribute Chronograph from 2023 is exactly what a duoface Reverso should be. Business in the front, elegant jewellery heist in the back.

Infinite coolness

The Gyrotourbillon

Jaeger-LeCoultre has a storied history of mastering and elevating complications. If you're like me and love a tourbillon, then you'll sploosh over the Gyro-tourbillon, I did - not literally but I probably would if I saw one in person. Introduced in 2004, is a testament to their mastery but I only saw it when the Westminister (below) was launched in 2019. This multi-axis tourbillon compensates for gravity's effects on the timekeeping mechanism, ensuring remarkable accuracy for no good reason. The Gyrotourbillon's intricate dance is a mesmerizing mechanical spectacle, a brute force show of horological mastery - no cap.

Imgs: Robbreport.com

The Spirit of Innovation: Jaeger-LeCoultre in Modern Times

You have the iconic Reverso, the old Memovox—known for its mechanical alarm function and JLC has continued to innovate with releases like the Master Control collection, which blends classic design with modern technology. Their dedication to artistic craftsmanship shines through in the Hybris Artistica line, where traditional watchmaking meets artistic expression. And if you can afford one then why not go all out as they offer customization options for many watches, allowing owners to create a timepiece that is uniquely theirs. From bespoke engravings to personalized dials, these customizations make each Jaeger-LeCoultre watch a personal statement.

Master Control Geographic Polaris Duometre (as vid below)

The Polaris collection, inspired by the iconic Memovox Polaris of 1968, is a perfect example of how Jaeger-LeCoultre embraces modern technology while honoring its heritage. These watches can be equipped with advanced features like chronographs and world-time functions, catering to the needs of contemporary watch enthusiasts with deep pockets.

Whether it's the timeless elegance of the Reverso or the technical brilliance of the Duometre (the moonphase dial also has a second timezone), Jaeger-LeCoultre watches are more than just timepieces; they are works of art that hold true to a tradition of technical prowess, craftsmanship and storytelling - and they do it with a style that is unique and unapologetic. Simply spectacular.

My Favourites

That one Reverso above (and below), you know the one. That watch is making me consider smashing the piggy bank, £22,900 ($25k) RRP, £20,000 if you're lucky - I would try go for £19,900 to make myself feel better - bargain. The truth of the matter is that JLC are the tier above Rolex in every way other than marketing prowess, and so they are priced accordingly. They don't even make a strict dive watch, what's the point, that's childs play. These are proper timepieces, haute horology, not just ego stroking, status boosting, jewellery pieces. They keep a a tradition of mechanical wizardry and craftsmanship alive.

Let's have a quick browse. I'm not sure how to word this, 'cheapest' doesn't sound right, so best value I guess, also a bit off. The 'least expensive' good-excellent condition duofaces I found online;

UK, VGC, gold, box and papers, 2007, £8,900.
UK, VGC, gold, box and papers, 2021,£13,900.
UK, VGC, steel, box and papers, 2021, £7,950.
Japan, Good Condition, steel, box, no papers, 90s?, £4,900
Japan, VGC, steel, box and papers, 2020? £6,700
Switzerland, VGC, steel, box and papers, 2014?, £8000*

I need to save up and go to Japan. I also found a fully restored 1931 model, though not a duoface they are sought after and very cool, that was £10,750. They are tagged Reverso on one dial with nothing else which is very slick, this design was reissued, the last on the above list is one of these and it is the only other contender. It has a seconds hand, travel time function and a bit of lume*. If you want (you don't) a regular monoface, you can get a recent model pre-owned for approx. £4500.

While I am into getting a gold watch, and a reverso would tick a few boxes in one, it would be a half measure, because the below watch is the pinnacle of almost affordable grail goodness. The Reverso Tribute Chronograph 2023, Q389848J - an 'eceipretsam' reversed. The only problems are there is no lume on it, and no seconds hand*, dealbreaker - hmm maybe, when I look at my watch I want signs of life - but maybe not. Oh and the price is a default dealbreaker. Are they they best luxury watches money can buy? I'm not just saying this because I've been immersed in JLC land for the last few days, but I think they are.

Watch the video and let me know what you think.