Watch Review | Maison Celadon Imperial Plum

I just want to start off by digressing, if you can do that. Firstly, I have been busy and distracted and annoyed by life which has kept me away from the watchlife, I am quite discontent. Secondly, I missed a call from the AD the other day as I was working, a call from the AD usually means something particular... But, I don't know if it was a call to say the insurance information for the Explorer II had been shipped-that arrived today, or if it was an invite to do some Christmas shopping - got an email for just that the same morning, or if, if, if it was the call from the AD saying they have a new Rolex for me. They didn't leave a message so I figured it wasn't too important, and so I didn't call them back, I just left it because I didn't feel like parting with £10,000+ today. If they want my custom, they can call me back - or they'll call the next person on the list, oh well. This indifference might be because I went to the Grand Seiko Boutique in London a couple of weeks ago, I didn't take photos, I was being a chill customer, Zen. I saw some lovely enamel dial Seikos, and I tried on a Shunbun (Grand Seiko SBGA413 - Cherry Blossom dial), it was a moment, enlightening and beautiful. I get it now. I get it so much.

Anyway, we've segued to beautiful dials so let's jump over to Singapore from Japan shall we, that's what we're here for, and boy is it a peach, I mean plum...the Imperial Plum (Blanc de Chine).

Background.

Maison Celadon is a brand that isn't likely known outside watch circles, and probably not so much inside the circle. If you've seen the first impressions post you'll know that I was impressed at first, but is that still the case after a year? And if you saw the enamel dial post, you'll know the brand is really making moves in that space, so they definitely have my attention.

CELADON HH. CENTURY CLOISONNÉ ENAMEL "DOUBLE DRAGONS"

The brand is part of a number owned by Benjamin Chee, a native Singaporean with Chinese (Fujian) roots, who after learning more about the land of his ancestors and living there, exploring and experiencing the craftmanship and history decided he wanted to share it with the world. In 2012 he founded Celadon, with the slogan and ethos 'Made in China with Pride'. That says it all, their team continues to create special timepieces and the brand is going from strength to strength.

Purchase / Post / Packaging.

It's been a while since I picked this up, the review is overdue. I actually bought the watch in July 2023 for the absolute bargain price of £450 + £50 delivery, it is among the best bang for your buck watches I own, that's around half RRP (1788 Singapore dollars (approx 1280 USD). It was fluke that I got hold of it, ever since I first heard of Maison Celadon a few years ago, I have sporadically checked Chrono24 for their watches, and to this day that day was the only time one has come up. Though when I searched today, there is a stunning Celadon Haute Horologie piece - CENTURY CLOISONNÉ "PEACOCK AND PEONIES" - for which there is usually a fair wait on a list. As beautiful as it is, it's a bit over budget.

The Imperial Plum ((Blanc de Chine) which means Chinese white or white from China, orginally used for Porcelain I believe) was not over budget. It was already in the UK, in great pre-owned condition with box and papers (couldn't find the bloody box...), and a stonking third party strap that looks a bit blue, but is actually black. Anyhow, I did not waiver, I did not hesitate, and I did not regret pulling that trigger...

Case, Dial & Hands.

As you can see, everything about this watch is pretty pretty. It's a tight 38mm in steel, the best size for a modern dress watch if you ask me, and it's a respectable 9.4mm thin. I love the lugs on this, teardrops lugs apparently, they are a little devilish and a touch long but they have a flair about them. They are inspired by Chinese furniture legs and now that I mention it, they really are deftly transferred onto the shoulders of this little beauty. Combined with the onion crown, they sit on a simple case, it's a good balance and the right amount of pizazz.

Look at dem legs, I mean lugs...

The two blued hands are quite robust and solid looking, a little industrial even, but the colour is stunning, complemented by a similar purple hue on the logo. The markers are quite big and imposing, double-faceted and are finished to a high level, they accent, almost grabbing, the pattern on the dial. And what a dial it is, the oil-pressed imperial plum guilloche pattern is inspired by vintage Chinese watches. At times it looks flat, but then the light hits it bursts into play, like when the sun hits your eye...it's amore.

How about the flipside then, this is the watch that just keeps on giving. We all know I love an exhibition caseback, but more so, I love to see a movement that has been made to show off. The dem lugs also look great from behind.

The caseback shouts 'MADE IN CHINA WITH PRIDE' literally and literally with beautifully engraved Chinese calligraphy and scroll stripes. I wish I new what the calligraphy says, but I don't. I tried a Google camera translate, and it didn't work out, it was a confusing mix of nonsense. Peaking (not Peking) cogs, blued screws of varying size, gold chatons, jewels, and a swan neck regulator, why not. It is a joy to behold and I sure do love beholding it.

And here's a quick video just for good measure, so you can see that plum pop.

Strap & Fit.

The strap looks fantastic but is an aftermarket special from Hirsch Straps, it's black alligator and is a perfect fit - kudos to the previous owner, I got lucky! The fit is superb at 38mm and 45.3 lug-to-lug, especially on a skinny wrist, it's low profile and dem lugs curve down towards the wrist. It's one of those ones that will work on any wrist, and it will draw attention as well. There's not much else to say.

Movement & Accuracy.

Is there anything better than a exhibition caseback paired with a handwound movement, other than A Daddario paired with a me. The current movement stated on the website is the Celadon-Grade B18 movement, made by Beijing Watch Manufactory, I'm not sure if mine is the same as it's an older model. It has a modest 42 hour power reserve and hasn't missed a beat. I'm still to get a timegrapher thingy but the watch has been solid. There is no seconds hand which I do miss to be honest, I like to see things moving, signs of life as it were. But I suppose I can turn it over and get just that.

Competition / Value for money.

Actually, this watch and what I paid for it is an unsurpassed horological bargain. If we're talking the price I paid, we're talking Seiko Presage Cocktail time variants, which are pretty sweet but doesn't anywhere near the attention to detail and finish of the Celadon. We are talking Tissot, which offers value and heritage but the Gentleman is solid, if a bit bland. We are talking, Baltic, brilliant but a bit blasé. It genuinely makes everything else look a bit boring when it comes to the total package.

At full price including delivery and tax, it's around £1200 maybe. Then we are up against, Seiko enamel dials, Frederique Constant Index, Junghans Max Bill, Longines Heritage/Flagships (pre-owned), and most dangerously, the various Nomos Club iterations that offer some flash with the finest German engineering. These are serious things. Real proper watches, from real proper established brands, but guess what, Celadon is one of them too, and you get real limited editions and proper craftsmanship.

The other dials colours are very cool, forget the red Rolex Oyster Perpetual, the red Imperial Plum is blisteringly hot, and the peacock pattern is something quite different, maybe a bit too out there. The coloured plums do catch the light more prominently than the blanc de Chine but I can't have it all I guess.

Imgs: celadonhh.com

Now, would I buy one full price, it's hard to say, the other colours are appealing but I think I would have to be in Singapore, at the boutique and get the full experience, it's a great price for a holiday special souvenir buy. Actually, I think one of haute horology pieces is more appealing, as you get so much for your money but at that price there is even more competition for my pennies.

Conclusion

The Imperial Plum then is a great balance of classic and inventive, something the Chinese do very well. It is one of the best watches I have ever bought, and not just at this price point. If we compare it to the Aesop Tourbillon, as a proposition, they are both bargains, offering something different one with Chinese manufacturing as burden the other with it as a boast. The Tourbillon offers a risk, the Celadon offers prestige.

It is a joy to wear, and to stare...at. Front and back offers numerous pleasure points, and as with many a special dial, the light brings it to life. More than the aesthetic fortitude Celadon has a sense of purpose, to bring attention and appreciation to Chinese horological craft, methods and artisans - they succeed and the Imperial Plum achieves this goal with a humble haughtiness that is hard to match. It just knows that it's special, and I feel that when I wear it, you can't ask for much more from a watch (except for a seconds hand maybe).

Yours Imperiously,

Alvin

P.S.

Two days after missing the call, I had another call from the AD, this time I answered. They kindly offered me a Rolex GMT Master II 126713GRNR aka The Zombie (gold and steel). This is a watch I tried on at the Rolex exhibition last year and it looked so effin good. But I took it off the list I just didn't think I would wear it, the gold made it a bit too flashy, at £15,050 it wasn't even a potential impulse buy as something half the price might be. Nevertheless, very cool moment. I wish it was a Bruce Wayne or a Pepsi, I would have been all over it.