Welcome to this watch review, much overdue, the first impressions post was in February 2024, it's been on the wrist a good few times and now it's time to reflect and review this French beauty. I hope the name is right, it's hard to corrobrate the details and there is conflicting information. Just for the record Croisière means cruise, and Ronde is round (obvs) so it's the Cartier Round Cruise of Cartier, something is definitely lost in translation. Cartier however, and it's weird and wonderful watches are universally understood.
As you may know I like to nickname my watches or rename as it suits me, this one is the Fat Tank, cos that's kinda what it is!
Background.
We'll keep this bit short and sweet and focus on the watch side rather than the jewellery. So, back in 1847, a young jeweler named Louis-François Cartier founded a small workshop in Paris - he nailed it. But it was his grandson, Louis Cartier, who put the brand on the watch map when in 1904, pilot and general rich bloke, Alberto Santos-Dumont, complained to Louis that pocket watches were a pain to use mid-flight. And so, the Cartier Santos was born — one of the first wristwatches for men! Then came the Cartier Tank in 1917—modeled after World War I tanks. Rugged yet refined, it was made available to the public in 1919, this watch became a Hollywood and royal favorite, and has remained so for over a century, which is insane and cool, but jewellery remains their bread and butter. In a recent luxury watch report, Cartier were second only to Rolex in sales, though miles off in terms of numbers, not bad for a side-gig.
My interest in Cartier only developed in mid 2023 when I started looking at the Tank, from there I got drawn in to their amazing complications and love of creating haute horology time-machines. This led me to buy the Ronde when I came across a deal, I wasn't looking for one specifically but it was right time, right dopamine moment. Soon after that, I also bought my younger sister a Tank Solo to celebrate her promotion, I'm nice like that. I kinda want it back though...
Imgs: Cartier.com
Cartier have become one of my favourite brands, they just don't give a damn what anyone else is doing - like Rolex they have their staple pieces, but unlike Rolex, who dive into big puddles, Cartier dive deep into the unchartered realms of bonkers horology. And like great art, these design masterpieces don't have to be owned to be appreciated - but it would be nice to own a few more...they so god damn expensive though!
Purchase / Post / Packaging.Â
This little Swiss French number came from way out east, from a little city state called Singapore via a little website called Chrono24. It was a pretty good deal at around £2400 (excluding tax), but then I got taxed which made me scream and punch several children in the vicinity, though in hindsight £2900 is still decent considering RRP is £4450. It was in decent condition, but there were a few scuffs on the bezel, now there are a few more. It's all good. I'd hopefully only lose a few hundred quid if I sold it. It was from an affable private guy who answered all my questions and sent more photos. He also packaged it well and posted promptly with box and papers. No drama.
The iconic Cartier box design is quite the treat, a luxurious moment in my rather not-so luxurious life. I would like more of these and the corresponding boxes, I would like to then build a castle with Cartier boxes, at the moment it will have to be a castle in the sky...
Design & Build Quality
This watch is like a shouty whisper saying, look at me I'm wearing a simple watch but signalling that I know some premium things. Try it, you gesture and articulate a shout but you release only an audible whisper, you can do it. The Cartier Tank says, I like fashion and jewellery so I'm wearing this quartz Tank because I don't know anything much about watches. But we want more, and this is where the Fat Tank comes in.
If you wear a Ronde, at 40mm, and a thin bezel it's all dial with nowehereto hide. That all roman numeral Cartier style dial, it features classic design details, there no unnecessary bits on the dial, the blued sword hands look great when they catch the light but that doesn't happen often enough, it was tricky getting them to flash for the camera, but when they did...
The dial is actually blasted a silvery grey, close inspection shows a matte dappled finish which moves from white to silver depending on the light. It's a classy but bold dial and it is star of the show with case and lugs being quite understated. The 7/VII o'clock marker features the aesthetically pleasing and authenticity indicating Cartier text, which is a cool connecting feature between many of their watches (sometimes it's at X o'clock). I discovered that it is called the secret signature, it's not that secret anymore though, and decent fakes will feature this.
It's not trying to impress anyone, but it will by default.
The dial design language is Cartier standard issue, hour hand is quite short to correspond with the railway hour track running below the numerals. The outermost track deals with the minute hand. Despite the bold dial that says, I am Cartier, it doesn't do much else because, well, it doesn't need to. It has a refined, understated elegance in its genes. Furthermore, the curved case measures 43mm from lug-to-lug, the short lugs keep the package tidy despite the dominating dial. The large, slightly raised printed hour numeral markers are eye-catching but at the same time it's quite nonchalant. Oddly, I don't think anything else on the dial is required, no date window surround, no applied logo that I usually like, it wouldn't be right. I guess the crown and the hands bring a touch of flash. It's not trying to impress anyone, but it will by default. As you can see it manages to thrive in the area between show-off and chilling.
A simple design trick here in having a 40mm case and a 43mm lug-to-lug, the bezel is reasonably thin and is the end of the main case, allowing the lugs to start low and end early which means they extend past the case just enough to allow the strap to fit. It's an elegant design for what is a large dress watch and makes it versatile and infinitely wearable.
So, what I'm saying is - it's cool af. Now, I am ashamed to say that I previously referred to the cabochon as a blue crown nipple, so immature, they have a red and black and green cabochon too but I don't think they've made a purple nurple, I would enjoy seeing that. The signature nipple crown is the only flourish on the Ronde, and again it only really stands out if the light hits it right, which isn't too often. The crown has a thin grip which makes it functional enough, though form does reduce function a touch. It's a solid package, but it's all polished and that does does make it grab finger prints and is easy to scuff per Cartier owner lore - this includes me.
You know I like a display caseback, and we get one here though it is rather understated and actually is a little disappointing. It's a thin movement and it is used in a bunch of other Cartiers, including the Tank XL, it was probably not originally designed as a show piece. It's still welcome but I think it could have been a bit fancier with the finishing - there is some Geneva striping and pinkish jewel action but it's a bit meh. Other than that, it's an all round flat fat banger. Classic Cartier design, pleasing form and fitting function.
On-Wrist Experience
'Ooh it's beautiful, a grown ups watch'.
"Ooh it's beautiful, a grown ups watch"- this is what my sister said when I showed her the Ronde. I'm not sure if she meant that as a complement or an underhanded slight. While the watch exudes an effortless flex, I guess it's a bonus that I might be perceived as a grown up when wearing it - not that we care what anyone else thinks. It does exude an air of classy, grown up, somewhat poshness that I can signal to the world at large.
It is distinctive but it is also effortless in execution and remains low-key. It fits like a dream to be honest. The Ronde is a joy for skinny wrists in many ways, the MC1847 is a thin movement making for a low profile case of 9.6mm, it has a short lug-to-lug of circa 43mm and the loose strap is secured under the clasp/strap leaving a smooth underside like a... I'll leave the pun for that one. The iconic double-push button clasp is quality too, adjustments are easy once you get the hang of it and it closes with a reassuringly expensive click. There is a tiny Cartier italic text logo on the inside, but no signage on the outside of the clasp which features the distinctive C shape so no need.
Cartiers are known to be quite scuff-able, I guess it's because the majority of their most common watches have polished finishes, the Ronde is no different. The bezel has picked up quite a few scuffs but no major scratches, easily polished out if required - I wonder what scrapes it was up to in Hong Kong - hopefully something more exciting than desk-dwelling! Other than that there are very few downsides, I suppose discretion is one, or lack thereof, while I mentioned the style is rather low key for a Cartier, it will still get noticed. I guess if you don't want that then you wouldn't be buying/wearing a Cartier in the first place.
These days dress watches are meant to be smaller dialled, compact, sleek numbers but the Ronde goes against this trend. In doing so it makes a case for a viable everyday watch for someone who dresses to match. Or for someone (bastards) with large wrists who might not suit a 36mm watch.
...dressy is not messy.
I wanted to add a note, someone on Youtube asked about wearing dress watches with jeans and a t-shirt, I think you can wear any watch with any outfit - you do you! But there are definitely loose rules for what works best. A Cartier can be worn with anything and will elevate your old CDG t-shirt, Champion joggers and Air Jordans if you want to roll like that, but it leads the outfit and you have to respect it. I think dressing down dress watch can be done in a few ways, but by definition dressy is not messy. The trend of small watches at the moment shows this, they wear them with everything, but generally people who dress smart-casual are the ones wearing tiny timekeepers. If you love your Ronde, your Maison Celadon, your Longines Master Collection (I do) - wear them all the time by keeping it simple, go for;
plain t-shirts and dark jeans
change the strap to something more casual/colourful
match the strap colour and style to something in your outfit
White or single colour, simple-smart trainers only
Some watches are more versatile than others - experiment.
These things can help you convince yourself to buy many much vintage Cartiers and wear them all the time, you're welcome for helping to make you bankrupt. The Ronde with plain black tee and blue jeans is a winner. I think it would look sexy-time on any shade of blue strap in suede or leather or an animal or a faux animaux. Orange would also look great, I am partial to a bit of burnt siena or tequila sunrise...
It has 40 hours of power reserve which is low considering the price, but not so bad considering the size of the watch. The MC1847 movement is also used in the Tank XL.
The Geneva stripes are subtle
Competition / Value for money
You get the in-house MC 1847 movement, which we appreciate, it's thin and simple, executed perfectly and is quiet, very refined if a little simplistic in finish. Cartier know how to make nice things. If you paid the RRP of £4450, you wouldn't be disappointed. If you got one new for under £4000 you'd be happy, and pre-owned ones at around the £3000 are a great value proposition.
The steel one is no longer available on the UK website so I reckon a replacement is on the way. The gold version is still on there for £12900, a bit much that is, though it's a limited run of 1000 which makes it more special.
While Cartier are the defacto 'roman numeral dial' kid on the block, there are a number of other attractive options from Swiss houses of decent repute, below are a handful. The Longines's are 40mm and the other two 39mm, RW is quartz, others are auto's, from left to right with rough pricing;
Raymond Weil Toccata 5485-STC-00359 / £600
Longines Master Collection L2.793.4.79.2 / 2100
Longines Record L2.821.4.11.2 / £2250
Frederique Constant Premiere FC-301SWR3B6 / £1300
If you want to get fancier there are many more options in the pre-owned market from Zenith, Glashutte and vintage APs and Rolexes. I would say that none of the contemporary options will have the status and signalling clout that the Cartier Ronde does, while it is essentially an entry level piece it is a discerning and classy choice. All the others are just pretenders.
Conclusion
Prior to this review I was really considering selling the Ronde, simply because I don't wear it enough - the Celadon and the Longines MC190 Engraved get more wrist time. But wearing it around the house and taking some stunning photos (all Cartier x Nikon, nothing to do with me) has me all shook up. Is that how it looks? It does make me look like a grown up! The Ronde is a fantastic watch, dressy but versatile, it oozes class and a design language honed for a century, it is basically a round fat tank and you can't argue with that, cos you'll get squashed.
The Tank is an icon but it is an acquired taste in terms of fit size and style and the Ronde is a more universal option, it is a perfect introduction to Cartier watches if you not sure about going rectangular or too small. While it may not have the best caseback it has almost everything else, it fits and looks like a dream, and scream whispers of abundant luxury to all including the wearer, as it manipulates you into buying more Cartier, in no time you will Cruise Round back to the Cartier boutique or AD for another hit- it's a gateway drug, and a big, fat, beautiful one at that.
Thanks for Reading.
Yours Roundingly
Alvin
Particulars
MODEL NUMBER
Cartier Ronde Croisière de Cartier WSRN0032
CASE DIAMETER / THICKNESS / MATERIAL
40mm / 9.6mm / 316L Stainless Steel /Â Sapphire crystal
LUG WIDTH / LUG TO LUG
21mm / 43mm
MOVEMENT
Cartier 1847 MC
Frequency: 28800Hz/Hr
Energy storage: 40 hours
WATER RESISTANCE
3Bar / 30M/ 3 ATM
LINKS & THINGS
Cartier Ronde
YouTube Review Long - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-4i4cLvRKz0
YouTube Review Short - https://youtube.com/shorts/VbPl6iyArFY