I have wanted a black watch for ages, as black as possible were my initial thoughts but then I loosened up a bit. There are a loads of them, almost 30 here, but some a little less black than others, which is ok, as longs as it's got the vibe. I suppose I don't want to be confused when I look at it, where are the hands etc, say we are out on night missions, zero dark thirteen style, we need to be super stealthy and cool af (I believe that af = 'as Fonzie' for you oldies out there). I need to know the time, I look at my watch, and it's so dark that I can't see the dial at all, we can't synchronise our watches and have to call off the mission. Okay, so maybe not but I want the watch to have in essence, that 'hell-black darkness' that Shakespeare was on about even if it isn't literally hell-black.
I have wanted a black watch with a black bracelet forever, I'm not sure why I don't have one. The mostest coolest ones are the ceramic case and bracelet ones. These, as you may know, cost a lot, some in the region of a Moonswatch licked by John Mayer (say £10k or so). This is my way of narrowing down to a few faves that might be potential purchases and including a few of the super-luxe expensive lusty ones too, cos watch-porn, am I right (not watch porn)!
HELLO DARKNESS MY OLD FRIEND.
It's nice that Rolex is absent by default, but what is not nice is, that an all black Tissot PVD PRX with black waffle dial doesn't exist yet, that would be the coolest thing ever, am I right? Yes I know, I am right. Until then, here are a few of the gooduns!
AUDEMARS PIGUET
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Black - 15416CE.OO.1225CE.01
So we start the list with the officially the most coolest and bestest and expensivist watch on the list. This is the AP Royal Oak 'Double Balance Wheel Openworked' in black ceramic, it's a beauty. The bracelet in black looks even better than in steel, the internals are in black/dark grey to bar the gold balance wheel section, it's one of my fave stupid expensive watches.
If I had money to burn and not time (on the waiting list), I would burn it on this watch, the resale price below is staggering, that's in Dubai, unsurprisingly!
Movement: Automatic
Case Size: 41mm
Case material: Ceramic
Price: £87,700 RRP / £209,536 in stock.
BELL & ROSS
Bell & Ross BR 03-92 PHANTOM
It's a phantom, we also start the list with the probably blackest watch on it - Omega might have something to say. It's a classic B&R with all black everything, ceramic case with rubber strap. At this price I think they could have stuck a matte black ceramic bracelet on it and it would have been very ominous and serious looking, but as it stands, it's stealth to the max but lacks the finishing touch.
Movement: Automatic - BR-CAL.302.
Case Size: 42mm
Case material: Ceramic
Price: £3,600
Bell & Ross BR 03-92 DIVER BLACK MATTE
I really like the design of these BR dive watches, I like the regular steel with black dial before this one. They have an industrial and rugged look to them, however, they have a problem. I believe they are rocking selita movements, which is absolutely fine to a point but not at this price point. Pre-owned I saw one for £1800, still too much, but money to burn I would have one.
Movement: Automatic - BR-CAL.302.
Case Size: 42mm
Case material: Ceramic
Price: £3,600
Bulgari
Bulgari Octo Finissimo 103077
The Octo Finissimo range are slim, slick and elegant, the micro rotor movement is beautiful. In black it retains that but becomes serious and stealthy. And
Movement: Automatic micro-rotor
Case Size: 40mm
Case material: Ceramic
Price: £11,050 (on sale from £17,000)
Bvlgari Octo Roma 103486
Bulgari kind of go under the radar, though they have some great watches and this is one of them. It's got the patented Bulgari angles but a more rugged and functional aesthetic. A quality timepiece that stands apart from the crowd, if you wear Bulgari it means you know your watches.
Movement: Automatic
Case Size: 41mm
Case material: Stainless steel PVD coated
Price: £5,557.50 (on sale from £8,550)
CARTIER
Cartier Tank WSTA0064 + WSTA0072
Ok, so these are slightly less black than the others but the one on the left (WSTA0064) is the special one as it has the black nipple crown, aka cabochon, it's a Geneva limited edition of 50 and there was one recently on Chrono24 for around £5k, that is gone. So now, they are expensive and your best bet is the WSTA0072, which is on the right here, can we allow the blue cabochon, no, no we can't.
Movement: Quartz
Case Size: 33mm
Case material: Steel
Price: 0064 £11000 / 0072 £3300
CASIO
Casio B640WB-1AEF
Now, here we have a watch that is quite black and quite cheap indeed, the digital display is inverted making it more black, and therefore more cool. At this price it's a must in anyones collection, the only reason not to buy it is that you don't have the storage space.
This is my reason, for now, I'll probably get it sooner or later. It's a buy for sure, one for when funds are low but that itch comes along and must be scratched. There are loads of Casios in black but I think this is the one to have.
Movement: Digital
Case Size: 35mm
Case material: Plastic/Resin
Price: £55.00 RRP
IMG: Casio
CASIO G-SHOCK
G-Shock 2100 1a1ER (CASIOAK)
Is G-Shock part of Casio, yes it is, so they are included here and they are probably the best value for coolness watches you can buy. The 2100 leads the was in its many colour-ways and iterations, but it is most at home is the darkness. Unbeatable style, the CasioOak links to the AP (first on the list) with its octagonal bezel in common and adopts the nickname, the rest is history.
Movement: Digi-Quartz
Case Size:
Case material:
Price: £129
G-Shock DW-5600BB-1ER
Another ICON in the digital/value/cooness watch category is the 5600 series, so many variations in colour and design but the best is moody black, including the inverted display. I just realised it's going to be very hard not buy several watches on this list. Out of stock at Casio, but on sale at Amazon!
Movement: Digital
Case Size: 48.9 x 42.8 x 13.4mm
Case material: Plastic/Resin
Price: £100 / £75 at Amazon now.
G-Shock GBA-800-1AER
A big daddy of a G-Shock, for this rugged mountain mud running kind of crazy people and for those with wrists the size of my bicep. Can't go wrong with the big ass dark side of the GBA-800.
Movement: Digi-Quartz
Case Size: 54.1 x 48.6 x 15.5 mm
Case material: Resin
Price: £119
Hamilton
Hamilton Khaki Field Quartz H68401735
It's a, or even 'the', classic field watch from Hamilton, it's super sexual in black with that textured band and the pvd case, there is an auto variation too (with day date). It's versatile and means business, there was a time when I was really into getting one of these, but now I think they are cool but a bit meh.
Movement: Quartz
Case Size: 40mm
Case material:
Price: £445 down from £560
IMG: https://www.francisandgaye.co.uk/mens-khaki-field-day-date-automatic-blackout-watch-H70695735-p25838
Hamilton Khaki Navy Frogman H77845330
A proper dark ass dive watch, the frogman is all business but you probably won't be able to read it in the murky underwater depths as it's a probably a bit too dark for its own good. Oh but it is massive which might help, it's also a bit expensive.
Movement: Automatic
Case Size: 46mm
Case material: PVD coated steel
Price: £1250
LUMINOX
Luminox Leatherback Sea Turtle.
I wouldn't normally be into Luminox, though they are established solid and rugged watches. This does fit the brief and is one of the blackest watches on the list. It would be great for night missions and throwing at someone's head in the dark, they'd never see it and it wouldn't break.
Movement: Quartz
Case Size: 39mm
Case material: Carbonox
Price: £299 @ Luminox
ORIENT
Orient Ray Raven FAA02003B
As Seiko keep bumping up their prices, Orient become a much more interesting value proposition. I love my Mako, and this isn't far off. It won't make you poor, it won't miss a beat, it's an automatic movement, and I would have one of these any day.
Movement: Automatic
Case Size: 41.5mm
Case material: Steel/PVD Coating
Price: £350
LONGINES
Longines Conquest VHP GMT Flash setting L3.718.2.66.6
If I didn't already have this one in steel with blue dial, this would be a purchase. Unfortunately, in a terrible paradoxical situation type thing, if I didn't have it I wouldn't no how cool it was and so I probably wouldn't buy it. It's a quartz GMT with a gimmicky but very cool flash setting function, but it's a quartz for nearly £1000. I paid £900 for mine I think, the black is worth the extra, only available pre-owned these days as it was released in 2018 - one on eBay Japan for £637, bargain.
Movement: Quartz
Case Size: 41mm
Case material: PVD Coated Steel
Price: £999
Longines Hydroconquest L3.784.4.56.9
This is a big old, chunky old super legible and robust diver from Longines. Simple but effective, and maybe a bit pricier than your usual Longines (cos it's ceramic) but it's purposeful and you can pick them up on a discount, Goldsmiths sale sees the price at £2,850 - yea that's preloved black bay money...
Movement: Automatic
Case Size: 43mm
Case material: Ceramic
Price: £3,950 RRP
Longines Legend Diver L37742509
This is the legendary legend diver from Longines, in matte black, very slick indeed. I do like this watch a lot, it is 42mm however, and has the longest lugs in the world ever though, which is off-putting for a skinny wrist. Cut them lugs down and put a black steel bracelet on it and you've got a winner.
Movement: Automatic
Case Size: 42mm
Case material: PVD coated steel
Price: £1999 on sale from £2700
OMEGA
OMEGA SPEEDMASTER DARK SIDE OF THE MOON 311.92.44.51.01.005
The Darkest Speedmaster here, the darkness is just blinding, so much dark. We're on the luxury side of the moon here and it quite the spectacle, there is no denying the darkness here. Next to the B&R Phantom, this is the essence of a hell-dark horology, and it comes in a big package, maybe a bit too big.
Movement: Automatic
Case Size: 44.25mm
Case material: Ceramic
Price: £12,100 / $15,200
OMEGA Seamaster Diver 300M 210.92.44.20.01.003
Omega sure have got that dark side stuff down to a tee. However, the Seamaster sees the functionality of its diving prowess thrown into the darkness, to never be seen again. Who cares, you weren't going to dive in it anyway, were you? It looks great but again it's a biggun, lug-to-lug is bigger than the Speedmaster and it ain't cheap either. Omega ceramic must be a bit more special than everyone else's.
Movement: Automatic
Case Size: 43.5mm
Case material: Ceramic
Price: £8,900 / $11,200
SEIKO
Seiko Prospex Speedtimer Solar Chronograph ‘Black Series’ SSC917P1
The recent night edition/black series releases have been very well received and they are super cool. I think in terms of potential purchases for me they are near the top of the list. The speedtimer is a classic, and a great name - I don't have a solar quartz in the collection, but this is a good looking watch at a great price.
Movement: Quartz Solar
Case Size: 39mm
Case material: Steel/PVD coated
Price: £480 / £640 RRP
Seiko 5 Sport Black NATO SRPD79K1
Here's a cracker of a black beauty Seiko 5 automatic field watch all in black steel, while slick on a black bracelet it would look superb on a black nato. A low key stealthy bargain, I bet there are discounts to be has well. Maybe a bit too simple for me, as I have a version of this Seiko field watch in green (SNK805K2).
Movement: Automatic
Case Size: 39mm
Case material: PVD coated
Price: £330
Seiko Spirit SARB063
This a dark spectre, a myth, a watch you may never see in real life, maybe not even on the interwebs, until now. This is a 2009 release, a limited edition of 500, back when Seiko knew what 'limited' meant. This a chunky, no nonsense SARB in a similar configuration to the legendary SKX, what's not to like.
Movement: Automatic
Case Size: 42mm
Case material: Steel/PVD coated
Price: £ - would fetch at least a thousand doubloons dependent on condition.
Img: Seikoguy.com
Seiko Spirit SARB073
So, have you ever? Never!? I'm not surprised (you should have if you've seen SARB posts on the Theowrist!). This is one is an absolute beauty of a SARB from 2010. This is a Unicorn, you will never see one, you will never even be within 1000 miles. It is said that if you see one in person, the smile will never leave your face. It's the rarest of the SARBlings. If you have loved a SARB035 then you will know the potential this has to blow you mind and your nuts (all nuts) off at the same time.
Movement: Automatic
Case Size: 39mm
Case material: Steel/PVD coated
Price: £ - I would pay a few thousand million doubloons
- FYI we use ancient currency for legendary rare and unavailable timepieces.
Img: Seikoguy.com
Seiko Prospex ‘Black Series Night’ Alpinist SPB337J1
I wanted this pic to be a bit bigger as I think this is one of the frontest runners, only one issue, the price. I've always wanted an Alpinist, and this is a stunner, the dial details are strong on the black background and textured dial, some don't like the blue accents, I do. But this sonbitch is pricey at £850, Seiko doing Seiko things, but if a deal comes along I will snap this bitch up son!
Movement: Automatic
Case Size: 39mm
Case material: PVD coated steel
Price: £850
TUDOR
Tudor Black bay Ceramic M79210CNU-0001
This is a beauty, the Black Black Bay if you will. If only it had a ceramic bracelet it would be amazing. It's a bit pricey considering, though it is quite attractive. I'm not sure that a black bay not on a bracelet is a proper black bay. Still a solid option for premium watch category if ceramic is what you're after - save a grand or so with a preloved one
Movement: Automatic
Case Size: 41mm
Case material: Ceramic
Price: £4420
TAG HEUER
TAG HEUER Monaco CBL2184.FT6236
Oddly enough, in this brand-alphabetical list, the last two are a couple of my absolute favourites. This styling on this watch is stunning, a bit of Tron and cyberpunk vibes, a great size at 39mm with stubby lugs that are just heaven. It's so bloody expensive though. There is one on Chrono24 for £5808, yea nah but it's in Australia, dilligaf! I do.
Movement: Automatic
Case Size: 39mm
Case material: Coated Titanium
Price: £9,850
ZENITH
Zenith Defy 21 El Primero 49.9000.9004/78.M9000
This one might be the best of the bunch, but it might actually be the least black. It's a complicated masterpiece (separate power plants for chronograph and regular time) that I mentioned in my last Watch PIT post. The Watchfinder price is superb even if it is still super expensive. Big, but it's showing off the movement and functionality so it's allowed. Big Love.
Movement: Automatic
Case Size: 44mm
Case material: Ceramic/Titanium
Price: £14,600 / £8550 Watchfinder
IMG: Goldsmiths.co.uk
FADE TO BLACK
No Rolexes, no Chinese watches, no messing around, black to basics here. This post took me ages to get together, I had the idea last year but just didn't have the time as there was quite a lot of info to gather. I still missed a few I think but the main ones are in. The Seiko Alpinist, the Casio and G Shocks are all in the running. If I have a stroke while searching I might accidentally click on buy for the Zenith and Tag. If I could find a SARB073, I would be all over it, like Daddario.
Earlier today I handed in my potentially last assignment for my postgrad diploma so I had to kick off my return to more regular and more involved posts, The Theowrist will hopefully be theowrising more often. Thanks for reading, and let me know if I missed your fave black watch!
Yours Hell-blackishly,
Alvin