My visit to the AD | Rolex Exhibition 2024

Yes, I was back at the AD for the first time after buying the Explorer II, and yes I wore it, and yes it was to prove that I hadn't flipped it. And yes, it was also because it's a low-key flex which is required in AD Town. And yes, I like it a lot and it's cool which makes me cooler than I am already...

This visit to the AD was all about the 2024 Rolex models. In addition, I had a look at a few existing Rolexes, a few random not-Rolexes and got a bittersweet fiddle of my favourite Rolex, the one I am most happy about being on the list for, unless I get the call and have to pay for it - the sunuvabitch Sky-Dweller.

First on the plate or Rolex watch tray thingy, was a marmite Rolex, it's equally loved and hated - if you don't know what marmite is, it's a horrible spread that some people eat on toast. It look and smells like it should grease engine parts. Anyway, that Rolex is the Air-King 126900. I do love the name and the size at 40mm is perfect, I do love the old 369 ones, but this one is a bit too busy.

Actually, it looks great in the photo. If the minute numerals were smaller, the hour hand was non-mercedes and the yellow Rolex crown was at 12, I would have bought it there and then - so basically if it was quite different. Interestingly, it was on sale for £6300 which is under RRP of £6500. You won't see many models on the shelf under retail in the AD, or maybe you will in the future. The cheapest on Chrono24 is £6132 in Hong Kong and in the UK is £6600 (both from dealer) - they are the Rolex sport entry level model but it's not universally liked. There are only 26 of these for sale in the UK on Chrono24. The price at the dealer is a sign of the market at the moment, and it's a good thing.

BATMAN vs BRUCE WAYNE

Next up are a pair non-identical twins, the Rolex GMT Master II 126710GRNR with grey and black bezel on the oyster bracelet and jubilee. It's nice to see both variations as invariably it's one or the other at the AD. This one has been tagged the Bruce Wayne in the horolosphere - some hate the nicknames but I think they are fun and sometimes clever. But sometimes the wrong one takes hold. This should be the Dark Knight or the Green Arrow as some have noted. As always the 40mm GMT fits like a dream, but I prefer it on the jubilee as it seems to work with the muted bezel tones, it's a good balance and remains reasonably unflashy. It's a bit flat on the oyster but some will prefer that sportier vibe.

The green accents look great and total package is nice alternative to the steel and gold 126713GRNR (Zombie?) variation of last years drop. I am suitably impressed, put me on the list, though at £9550 for the jubilee (£9350 oyster), it's likely to break the £10k barrier by the time a call comes in. For shame.

Which is exactly what is happening with my favourite, the Sky-Dweller 336934 mint dial. It was £13500 when I went on the list, and now it's £14050 and only Hades knows what it will be if I ever get the call. But the Sky-Dweller is a stunning and shiny and annual calendary and bezely as I remember it, I like it a lot. There is something about the form and function factor here that hits all the marks. Unfortunately, it has been allocated to someone else, lucky bastard!

Look at that tray below, three beauties and none of them mine. Although I think I like Batgirl (another naming error) in Batman guise, on the oyster bracelet that is. While the Sky-Dweller is a bit big at 42mm it still sits well, but the GMTs at 40mm are amongst the best fitting watches I have ever tried on.

They just sit perfectly on the skinny wrist and on any wrist for that matter. It was a shame they didn't have the Batman as it would have been the only time that Batman and Bruce Wayne would have been seen in the same room together... My only issue now is that a GMT has the same movement as an Explorer which kind of bothers me in that they are fundamentally similar but I suppose the style is so different it works out ok if I ever get one. It's the price that brings these kinds of considerations to the fore, I'm not bothered when it's a £120 spent on the Seagull ST movements in another case, I'd buy 10 variations - you know I would.

Now on to the heavyweight champ, it's been called absurd, very big and very silly, it might be made for strongmen and dictators cause you'll need absolute power to wield it. It is the Rolex Deepsea 136668LB and this also how much it weights (LB is pounds right) as it is a 44mm solid 18 carat gold behemoth. At the 2023 Rolex Exhibition, this is my second you see, I'm a veteran, I was almost floored by the weight of the white gold Daytona but this is something else, it is immense. It's £47,500 and other numbers are impressive as well, 12,900ft/3900metres waterproofness, and it actually weights 322grams - the GMT-Master II weights 151grams, yea it's a monster, which is how the Lady AD introduced it.

This is what the exhibition is all about, and it's what being connected to a quality AD is about, being comfortable looking at crazy watches you'll never buy. Importantly, they know you can't afford but also know you'll appreciate it. Sure there's always a future/potential sales angle to it but it's not just that. This watch is insane, go to you kitchen or when in the supermarket find things that weight 300g and then walk around with them stuck on your wrist, don't argue just do it - if it's two chicken breasts then so be it - and report back on the experience. Oh and it's 17.7mm thick, it's like having a filet steak on the wrist - try it (I must be hungry).

TUDOR TIME

There's always time for a Tudor. As is the custom, a few in stock and more affordable watches are presented for consideration amongst the unavailable teases. Sometimes it's hard to see the Tudor for the Rolexes. First up was the new 39mm GMT Black Bay 58 (M7939G1A0NRU-0001 / £3,960) which stands out brightly in between the Bruceys. It looks fantastic but is quite bold and in your face, it's shiny actually. I think if you're going this shiny and there's gold on the bezel you might as well go steel and gold bracelet. It's pretty sweet though I won't be buying a Tudor GMT.

I am however interested in the various case materials offered by Tudor, ceramic, bronze, steel&gold, silver and gold, I might have missed something, but that is a very cool way to collect I think. I was shown the Alinghi Red Bull Racing Pelagos FXD (Yacht Racing / M25707KN-0001) in carbon and titanium, very light and legible, it's about function but it's surprising attractive. It's on a velcro strap which fits comfortably.

I like heavy watches, not 322 grams, but something that has some heft and substance, so titanium has always been meh to me, but I really liked this one and at £3310 it's a decent price for something technical and different. There is a chronograph/date version (M25807KN-0001) which might be a better overall package. They didn't have the Black Bay Ceramic with Blue dial, that looks sweet too. Unfortunately for the AD this is the kind of watch that will see a significant discount in the grey/pre-owned space, I'll get one if the time is right and price is under £2k. Tudor though, they are awesome aren't they. Hans Wilsdorf sure knew what he was doing.

THE END

So that's another Rolex Exhibition out of the way, it leaves one unfulfilled and gagging for more, so gagging yet so unliquid right now - hopefully I can control the impulse buying and save up for a while. The Rolex I really want, is the Milgauss, it's kooky and cool and I love it. I hope to find a deal in the future and make that my next Rolex/big watch purchase, unless I get the call for a Sky-Dweller. I was informed, if I get the call at a bad time, I can put a deposit on and they will hold it - I wonder if they'd hold it for a year or two while I save the pennies.

As for the exhibition pieces, the Deepsea is just maximum bonkers, and the Bruce Wayne is low-key cool. I will likely not see either in the watch box so I will enjoy the Explorer II as I wait. The inane nature of my problems, first world nonsense if you will, is not lost on me. I am grateful for for what I have and the troubles I don't. As a wiser person once said, there are those who have less and suffer more. Keep it real folks, now go and buy a watch. Thanks for reading and keep on keeping on.

Yours Wilsdorfingly,

Alvin